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Spinning Composter - Frequently Asked Questions
 How often should I rotate the Spinning Composter?
The tumbler should be rotated at least 3 to 4 times a week to ensure proper aeration.
How long before the compost is ready to be used?
The compost will mature in about 7 to 10 weeks if the carbon to nitrogen ratio is good and the materials are chopped into small pieces, kept moist and aerated.
Composting time depends on several factors (temperature, moisture level, aeration, size of pieces, carbon-nitrogen ratio, etc.). Generally, the more rigorously these factors are controlled, the faster the process will be. Left on its own, the compost heap could take up to two years to decompose.
How can I tell if the C/N ratio is the best for rapid composting?
With experience, you will develop a feeling for the optimum ratio. If you mix a quantity of green and moist material (grass, plants, flowers, table scraps) with an equal amount of dry or brown material (leaves, dry plants, etc.) you should have a good C/N balance. Remember that a 30:1 ratio is ideal for producing a hot compost that decomposes fast. A higher ratio (60:1, for example) will produce a good compost but the heap will decompose more slowly.
Can composting be done in winter?
Yes, according to the region where you live. The composting process generates heat. Cold temperatures will not destroy compost but decomposition will slow down or go dormant for a while. You can continue adding organic matter all winter, even if the heap is frozen. Come spring, the heap will thaw and decomposition will resume. It's important to keep the base empty in freezing weather (see user's guide).
What should I do if my compost heap smells bad?
Unpleasant odors are due to poor aeration or an excess of nitrogen. Bacteria proliferating in the anaerobic environment of a compacted heap produce a rotten-egg smell. A heap with that smell should be turned over more often for aeration and to promote the proliferation of aerobic bacteria. Dry materials such as dead leaves, straw, peat moss or wood chips can be mixed in to absorb the excess water and create air pockets. Too much wet material (rich in nitrogen) such as green grass or kitchen scraps produces an ammonia smell. This can be fixed by adding dry materials (rich in carbon).
How can I measure the level of moisture in the compost?
The compost heap should be as wet as a wrung sponge, with no water dripping out, when compost is squeezed between the hands.
What if the tumbler is hard to rotate?
It's possible that the compost is too wet and has formed a compact, heavy ball. Add dry materials.
It could also mean that the compost is mature and the bin needs to be emptied.
Should I water my compost heap?
The Blue Planet Smart normally maintains an adequate level of moisture which promotes rapid composting. You may have to wet your compost according to the region where you live. A too-dry compost heap could take years to decompose.
How should I empty the Blue Planet Smart and collect the compost?
To easily empty your composter :
a) Remove the tumbler from the base and roll it to the desired location;
b) Remove the tumbler's door;
c) Rotate the tumbler until its opening faces the ground;
d) Shake the tumbler to dump the compost on the ground.
Why isn't it possible to compost meat, fish or dairy products?
Animal products attract flies and animal scavengers that are unwelcome and can be carriers of disease. These materials also tend to reek.
Can weeds be composted? How can they be prevented from germinating in the compost?
Weeds that have not gone to seed can be composted. Those that have gone to seed can survive temperatures up to 140° Fahrenheit, which even a very hot heap of household compost will not reach in a uniform way. Hard-to-kill weeds like couch-grass, golden grass, flowering ragweed, and poison ivy should not be put into a compost heap even if shredded.
Can sick plants be composted?
No. Sick plants should not go into a bin of household compost. Microscopic fungi can survive the process and then spread in the garden.
Can waste from pesticide-sprayed areas go into compost? What happens to it?
Toxic materials are usually neutralized in a compost heap that heats up properly. But you should never intentionally add chemical products to the heap. Avoid any item that may have been exposed to chemicals.
Can vacuum cleaner dust be composted?
The natural fibers of wool and cotton decompose and are good additions to the compost heap. Synthetic carpet fibers do not break down, even if they can't be seen in the mature compost. Dryer lint containing synthetic fibers should also not go into the compost heap. Synthetic fibers can take many years to decompose and will accumulate.
Can glossy and/or colored newspaper inserts be composted?
Some glossy papers contain toxic pigments and are therefore not recommended for composting. There's a better way to get rid of these papers: recycle your newspapers through your community recycling program.
Can fireplace ashes go into the compost?
Wood ash can be added to the compost in a careful and restrained way. It is an excellent source of potassium and calcium, two minerals needed for plants to grow. Do not burn treated or painted wood nor use its ash. Avoid ash from burned paper since it may contain residue of heavy metals or chlorine composites. Avoid charcoal ashes.
Can I add animal excrement?
The excrement of domestic pets (dog, cat or other carnivores) should be thrown in the garbage. The excrement of herbivores (rabbit, guinea pig, hamsters, etc.) are non-toxic and can be added to the compost. Rabbit droppings in fact make excellent compost.
Fruit or vinegar flies (diptera) have invaded my composter. Is this normal?
Yes, it's part of the process of decomposition and helpful. Their larvae are voracious decomposers. In a rotating composter, they are restricted to a small area. Avoid placing your nose directly above the door when adding to your composter
What makes a good quality compost?
The advantage of the Blue Planet Smart is the control users have over the materials composted. Good materials will produce high-grade compost and users will be spared nasty surprises (contaminants, weeds, etc.).
There are standards to assess the quality of compost, including its maturity, concentration of organic matter, presence of physical contaminants, pH, particle size, concentration of nutrients, moisture level, and concentration of heavy metals. However, these standards apply only to commercial compost production. Home composters can apply these standards as guidelines in assessing their own compost.
Should an activator or earth be added to the compost?
Activators are not essential for composting. They contain nitrogen-rich fertilizers and/or dehydrated bacteria that are already abundant in dead organic matter. These bacteria will multiply rapidly. If you need a source of nitrogen - to decompose a big pile of leaves, for example - use a natural fertilizer such as blood meal or bone meal that is cheaper than a commercial activator.
Is compost a fertilizer?
Compost can contain various quantities of nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but their concentration is not as high as in a fertilizer. In reality, compost is a soil amender or a treatment to restore organic matter to the soil. Also, compost benefits the soil by improving its structure, aeration and capacity to retain water.
Should a fertilizer be added to enrich the compost?
It's not essential but could depend on the material to be composted. A varied combination of garden and kitchen waste will contain enough minerals and nitrogen to produce the right balance. If only leaves or other carbon-rich material is to be composted, then a source of nitrogen (blood meal or bone meal) will need to be added. The addition of natural phosphorus or other powdered mineral could be beneficial since the minerals will combine with the humus to become more readily available to the plants.
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